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SECTION 1: Installing Stairs & Handrails The installation of new stair treads and new handrails should only be considered by someone that has experience and a proven track record in the stair building business ( this is not a job for the weekend handyman ). When renovating for your new solid wood stairway with wood treads, railings and balusters, you will have to remove the existing railing system and carpet on the stairs; then the base structure for the new wood stairs will have be prepared for the new product. On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult... installing wood stairs & rails rates a 4. We recomend you seek the advice of a professional staircase builder in your area! Step #1. How To Install Stairs - Demolition. In this segment, host Fuad Reveiz begins the stairway remodel by demolishing the old staircase. A well-crafted wooden staircase can add architectural interest to a home as well as create a focal point, especially in an entryway. With a little imagination this is one project that might become a creative process that could turn your stairway into a thing of beauty! Open Link - Stairway Remodel: Demolition Step #2. How To Install Stairs - Preparing the Stringers - Building and Installing the Skirt Boards. In this segment, host Fuad Reveiz prepares the stringers and builds and installs the skirt boards. In this Phase of the stair Remodeling, host Fuad Reveiz converts this stairway from average...to eye catching! Open Link - Stairway Remodel: Preparing the Stringers - Building and Installing the Skirt Boards Step #3. How To Install Stairs - Installing the Stair Treads - Installing Hardwood on the Landing. In this segment, host Fuad Reveiz installs the stair treads and the hardwood on the landing. Open Link - Stairway Remodel: Installing the Stair Treads - Installing Hardwood on the Landing Step #4. How To Install Stairs - Installing the Handrail and Spindles ( Balusters ). In this segment, host Fuad Reveiz finishes the project by installing the handrail and spindles (balusters). Open Link - Stairway Remodel: Installing the Handrail and Spindles (Balusters) Click Here to Visit the DIY Network Website for More Home Improvement Tips. All Information On This Page Is Owned By The DIY Network. SECTION 2: Installing Metal Balusters Our Free Advice: Stay away from metal balusters that only rely on a few small screws to hold them in place at the top and /or bottom ( typically the metal balusters sold at big box stores… stair installers will not warranty them, as the lack structural strength ). See, these metal balusters really have no strength and actually fail new home construction code in some provinces in Canada ( this is why we don't sell the bracket mount metal balusters ). On a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the most difficult... installing new metal balusters rates a 3. Existing Wood Baluster Removal: Wood balusters may be attached to the handrail and floor in a number of ways. Some balusters are simply toe nailed into place. Others are installed into a hole in the handrail and may have a wood dowel in the base, which goes into the tread or floor. If the bottom portion of the wood baluster does not want to come up, try rotating it counter-clockwise because some balusters are installed into the floor or tread with a double-ended baluster screw. In older homes, wood balusters can actually be dovetailed into the treads. If you encounter a dovetailed baluster, you will either have to cut the wood baluster flush with the tread or remove the mitered end of the tread and knock the baluster out from the side. Most times you simply remove the wood balusters by cutting them in the middle and removing the top and bottom sections of the baluster. Drilling Installation Holes: If you are installing the metal balusters in the same location as the old wood balusters, you need to check the size and depth of the existing holes. Metal balusters that are 1/2 inch square ( which yours will be ) will require that you drill at least a 5/8" hole in the floor and a 1/2" hole in handrails bottom surface. The hole in the handrail will need to be at least 1" up into the bottom of the handrail. Drill the bottom hole to a depth of approximately 5/8" to 3/4". Our powder coated metal balusters have the top of the baluster turned round which will may allow you to use a smaller diameter drill bit for the top hole. The turned top' tip also allows the baluster to be installed without a metal baluster shoe underneath the handrail. It is a good idea to drill and test fit one metal baluster before drilling all of the holes. Tip: Changing Baluster Spacing: New code requirements or aesthetics may require you to change the baluster spacing from the original wood baluster layout. Please note that the 2008 Canadian Residential Code and the 2006 International Residential Code requires that stairways have rails that do not allow the passage of a sphere 4 inches in diameter or greater between the balusters. Please consult your local code requirements to determine what is necessary in your situation. If you must install metal balusters in a different location from the original wood balusters, it may be necessary to plug any existing holes in the handrail, floor and/or treads. It is possible in some situations to plug the holes with wood tapered face plugs and then sand them flush with the existing surface. Plugging the existing holes may require that you refinish the wood surfaces. Cutting The Metal Balusters: Measure the distance between the bottom of the handrail and the floor/tread surface. Cut the balusters 1-3/8" to 1-1/2" longer than the measured distance. Most balusters have the ornamentation closer to the top of the baluster. This should allow for all of the cutting to be done on the bottom of the baluster and thereby preserve the round tip on the top of the baluster. You can use several different methods for cutting the metal balusters. A metal chop saw with an abrasive blade or a metal cutting band saw can be used. These are available for rent from many local rental centers and the metal chop saws are readily available for purchase from home building hardware centers. A jig-saw or a grinder with a metal cutting blade can also be used. You should measure each location where a baluster should go and cut the specific baluster to size for that location. Test Fitting One Baluster: Slide a cut baluster up into the hole in the handrail until you can bring the bottom of the baluster in-line with the hole in the floor/tread. Seat the baluster into the hole and determine that there is adequate baluster length still extended into the bottom of the handrail. Adjust the diameter and depth of holes if necessary. Install Metal Balusters: Slide the metal shoes on the baluster and tape the shoe up so that it is not in the way during installation. Please note that the standard shoes and pitch shoes do not add stability to the metal baluster installation – the shoes are for cosmetic purposes and cover the gaps between the square baluster and the round holes. Apply epoxy or polyurethane adhesive into the top and bottom holes and insert baluster. If you are using standard or pitch shoes, place a small amount of epoxy or adhesive around the bottom of the baluster and lower the shoe in place. Square the baluster and shoe to the handrail and leave undisturbed until the epoxy or adhesive has fully cured. What Glue To Use: For a fast set up time, we recommend using 2 Part Epoxy Glue or for a 24 hour set up time, we recommend using PL Premium Sub Floor Adhesive to install the metal balusters. The epoxy is 100% solid and does not shrink upon curing. The epoxy cartridges come with a special tip that contains baffles that mix both parts of epoxy as it is dispensing which allows the user to place the "mixed" epoxy directly into the holes without any mess. The PL Premium is the best wood to metal glue on the market, it comes in a caulking tube, so it is easy to dispense. Both are very good products ( PL Premium can be found at any hardware store... it is in a black and gold caulking tube ). |
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